How To Set A Gemstone In A Ring

Stone Setting

By Robert Underhill

Without the art of stone setting, the dramatic gemstones featured in most fine jewelry would exist forlorn. The irony is that, done properly, rock setting in and of itself is not the intended focus. The true goal is to nowadays the gemstone in a way that most flatters it, without dramatizing the method in which information technology is secured.

Main setters are confronted with the challenge of securing diamonds and gemstones in the least invasive way. The objective when stone setting is to apply the minimum amount of material necessary to secure the gem. In doing and then the setter must provide maximum immovability while the gemstone jewelry is being worn. You demand but look at a unproblematic engagement ring with stilted fine wire prongs to understand the importance of this fine art.

We tend to take it for granted that all of the wonderful twinkling sparklers in our jewelry magically stay in position. In fact, it is fabricated possible past expert stone setting done by a specialized grouping of jewelers practicing a lost fine art.

Types of Stone Setting

While we are designing jewelry we can choose from many methods of rock setting, each intended to present gemstones in a dissimilar style. Some stone setting is intended to raise and dramatize a single stone, while others types offer clusters of gems to be viewed as a grouping. There are rock setting techniques with detailed workmanship that is intended to atomic number 82 the eye to the featured pattern. In other cases the setting work is intended to protect a fragile gem from excessive wear.

Here are a few examples of the types of rock setting used in modern jewelry:

Prong Setting

Considering of its use in date rings, prong setting is familiar to almost everyone. Information technology seems that there are prong fix designs to fit every shape and size gem in existence; the virtually typical being the traditional four or vi prong configurations. Prong settings range in style from trellis designs to baskets. The tiptop of prong-set stones allows calorie-free to enter from the top and sides, and it is unquestionably the most popular method of rock setting for individual featured gems. Prong settings boasts faceted stones in the proudest possible way.

When rock setting in prongs, a jeweler starts with prongs that are considerably longer than those seen in finished jewelry. The long prongs are carefully cut with paw-held rotary tools to excavate approximately ane third of the metal to form the seat in which the gem will residue. The carefully carved the seat is shaped to match the shape of the gem. Once seated, the setter will use specialized pliers and a serial of pushing tools to wrap precious metal around the stones girdle (edge). After the prongs are snug, they are meticulously trimmed to achieve the desired shape and size.

Bead Setting

Dewdrop setting is primarily used to display sequences of small diamonds in strands or continuous rows. Enjoying mass popularity during the tardily 1800's through the early 1900'south in Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco jewelry, bead setting vicious out of popularity for nearly 90 years. At present information technology'southward back, and stronger than ever. Today, the resurgence of bead setting can be seen in about every segment of the jewelry market.

Information technology is this author'southward conventionalities that there are two contributing factors to the always- increasing popularity of bead setting. The first is the renewed involvement in white gold and platinum throughout the early part of this century. Since the year 2000, the jewelry manufacture has been driven by white gilt and platinum, and few things in jewelry wait improve than strands of diamonds set in white.

The second factor is that the emergence of CAD jewelry design has made it possible to create less labor-intensive styles. With miniature beads created by computer automated design it is now possible to create fins bead gear up jewelry. The tedious stone setting that was done by old earth craftsman can at present be washed in half the time. Once the work of manus tooling, new applied science enables designers to position precision bead work throughout an item with greater ease.

Deriving its origin from beads raised with hand tools, artisans drilled holes in solid plates of metal and shaved abroad gold or platinum to form miniature beads from scratch. Every bit with all art forms, craftsmen with this rock setting expertise macerated over time. With the appearance of ameliorate models our mod setters can now consistently attain the aforementioned results in less time.

Pave Setting

Pave Setting is essentially a type of bead setting. The difference is the arrangement of stones. In pave setting, diamonds are set up in fields rather than rows or strands. Pave set diamonds typically embrace a broad surface area and share beads to create a diamond encrusted appearance. The bold diamond surfaces created by pave setting are breathtaking and coveted in fine jewelry.

Bezel Setting

Perhaps the oldest known way of securing a stone, bezel setting is believed to exist derived from the proper name of Bezalel, the starting time recorded jeweler, renowned for building the Ark of the Covenant. Still in popularity today, bezel setting is used to secure almost cabochon cut gemstones along with many of the faceted stones used in fine jewelry. While often used in crude and primitive designs, bezel setting tin can also be seen in exotic fine jewelry in 5th Avenue stores.

Bezel set stones are seated in sparse strips of precious metal, formed to the shape and size of a stone. Once seated, gems and semiprecious stones are placed within. The metal strip is and then trimmed to a depth that marginally overlaps the gem. Using smooth metallic tools, artisans burnish the metal by rubbing it with force to coil information technology over the edge of stones in order to lock them in position.

Gypsy Setting

Similar in appearance to bezels, gypsy setting also uses a ring of golden or platinum to surround the featured gem. The difference is that the walls used for gypsy rock setting are thicker than those used in bezel set jewelry.

In lodge to gypsy set stones, the heavy metallic edging supporting the stone must exist hammered into position by a craftsman with extreme care. Once the cavity matches the shape and pitch of the gem, the setter will employ a chasing tool or small pneumatic hammer to peen precious metal over the stones edge. This delicate process tin simply be done afterward a perfect fit has been achieved by the hands of an experienced jeweler.

Semi Bezel Setting

Semi bezel setting would be more appropriately named semi gypsy setting. Similar the gypsy, semi bezels are crafted from wide walls of metal that must exist carved with rotary tools and gravers to seat the rock.

Semi bezels are partial bezel, which only cover the extremities of a precious stone. Aside from the fact that this stone setting is a scrap easier to perform, the semi bezel setting procedure is identical to that of a gypsy setting.

Channel Setting

One time the rage of the eighty's and 90's, channel setting maintains a solid presence in contemporary jewelry. With clearly defined edges and clean, flowing lines, the walls of aqueduct gear up stones provide designers with distinct borders and edges.

Small stones seated side past side are suspended in walls slotted in strips of gold and platinum. Either uniform in size or gradually tapering, strands of channel set stones can be set in rows, or ribbon throughout a slice of fine jewelry.

Channel setting is achieved when a jeweler uses a rotary cutter to create a seat in precious metal that is grooved to the size of a gem. Once the setting wall is prepared, the rock is advisedly leveled into its seat. Using a precision handheld affect hammer, precious metal is advisedly chased over girdle to secure the stone at the desired angle.

Flush Setting

Flush setting is appropriately named because it enables designers to create jewelry featuring stones that lie affluent in the surrounding metallic. This can be done with a single big stone seated in a broad, level surface; still, this course of stone setting is about oft used to set smaller stones to create a spangled look. Flush prepare stones can lend a scattered glitter to apartment or domed areas.

Later on drilling a airplane pilot hole into gold or platinum, the stone setter uses a paw- held, flexible shaft to guide burs to open seats to adapt the jewels. With stones positioned flush, the metal the surface is gently manipulated with a chasing tool to lock them in place. Once secure, the border of the work is trimmed and neatly burnished with a bright edge to accentuate the glistening gem.

Millgrain Setting

Having risen to popularity in the early on 1900's in Edwardian and fine art Deco jewelry, millgrain setting has once once more peaked in need, reemerging equally a dominant chemical element in retro jewelry design. In actuality, millgraine or millgraine, as it is sometimes known, is not rock setting at all. Millgrain is the fine, beaded finish that streams along ridges and the troths in which dewdrop set stones are nestled.

The delicate ribbed border portrayed by millgrain, results from formation of tiny beads tooled onto ridges that are either cast, or cut into metal with jewelers gravers. These miniature chaplet are ordinarily manus tooled with rollers and cutters to grade uniform borders. The fine texture of millgrain setting allows jewelry designers to establish subtle shapes that neatly define tightly grouped fields of diamonds to give the jewelry archetype vintage appeal.

Source: https://jewelrydesigns.com/jewelry/jewelry-making/stone-setting/

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